An amazing place where everything runs smoothly.
Many of you will connect through Tokyo’s Narita Airport (airport code NRT) on your China journey. Delta (SkyTeam alliance) has a significant hub here, connecting China to many key US cities, and United (Star Alliance) has a large operation, too. Naturally, the local carriers JAL (oneworld alliance) and ANA (Star Alliance) use Narita as their primary long-range base. ANA and United are increasing their partnership and this may funnel even more China-bound familes through NRT in upcoming years. American Airlines and JAL have a similar partnership.
As your flight crosses the shoreline on approach to NRT, immediately you know something is different. The farms and houses below you are precisely arranged. The streets and highways look as if they were just installed, without potholes or patches. Everything is ... so geometric and, well, clean down there.

The sensation continues as you land and taxi to your gate. The ground workers shuttle about in immaculate jumpsuits. There is no trash blowing around, no decaying concrete, no abandoned airplanes or rusting vehicles. And despite the nearby tragedies of 2011, operations continue like clockwork here.

Transfer Process
You’ll exit your airplane and go up one level for passport control and X-ray / baggage screening. This goes very quickly, as they’re staffed, scheduled, and equipped to handle a full 747 - and in less than ten minutes you’re on an escalator heading back to the main concourse level. No body scanners or invasive pat-downs, either, to slow everything down.
Most of you will be coming in through Terminal 1, which serves most of the SkyTeam carriers (Delta, Korean Air, Air France/KLM) as well as the Star Alliance (United, ANA, Lufthansa, Air Canada, Asiana). For those of you coming in on a oneworld carrier (JAL, American, Qantas), you’ll be coming in through the newer Terminal 2. Because each alliance’s partners are (for the most part) located all near each other, connecting flights are only steps away. Baggage is automatically transferred to your next flight; simply proceed to your departure gate.
Navigating the Airport

On the concourse (which is Level 3 in both terminals), you have full access to all the gate areas, restaurants, and shopping inside the security zone. This is a great opportunity to stretch your legs and get some fresh, hot food. You won’t have a lot of time to explore the place; about 80-120 minutes, but it’s enough to pick up some souvenirs and resupply your carry-on bag with bottled water and snacks. Narita is the place to load up on food and beverages, because unlike the international gates at Chinese airports, in Japan you may definitely bring anything on board your aircraft that you have purchased inside the security zone.
Terminal 1’s layout is roughly shaped like a sideways letter “K”, with one half devoted to the SkyTeam carriers and the other to Star Alliance. Terminal 2 is made of two long parallel concourses, with a tunnel connecting them at the halfway point.
Moving sidewalks are deployed in several places, and they’re necessary for covering some of the longer distances between connecting gates. They also segregate passengers who are in a hurry, which makes all the hallways and shopping areas flow more smoothly.
Two points on the sidewalks:
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•In Japan, they drive on the left side of the road. So you want to take the moving sidewalk on the left side of the hallway.
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•The sidewalks move with a little more zip than we’re used to in America. Still a safe speed, but you need to pay attention.
If you should need to transfer between Terminal 1 and 2, shuttle buses are available inside the security zone. There is no tram system to connect the far-flung terminals and gate areas.

Family-friendly Amenities and Hidden Gems
In both terminals there are several places for toddlers to romp and burn off energy:
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•Terminal 1 features a kids’ playroom between gates 26-27. Not much there in the way of equipment, but soft furniture, toys, and space for running around. There are also “kids’ parks” near gates 41 and 51.
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•Terminal 2 offers playrooms in the central food/shopping court of the main concourse, between gates 76-77 on the main concourse, and on the satellite between gates 81-83.
There are convenient nursing rooms for a bit of quiet and privacy:
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•In Terminal 1, between gates 11-12, 21-22, 26-27, near 35, 41, 51, 52, and 57.
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•In Terminal 2, on the main concourse near gate 65, 76, and in the central food/shopping court; on the satellite near gate 92.
And in Terminal 1, there is a great little toy shop at the far end of the South Wing (gate 51-56 area) that specializes in Japanese anime, video game, and scale model items.
In the “hidden gems” category, Narita has set up several out-of-the-way lounge areas with reclining seats, including the lower level beneath the gate 21-25 concourse in Terminal 1 (take the elevator down), and also beneath gates 76-77 in Terminal 2 (again, take the elevator.)
In Terminal 1, between gates 26-27, there is also a lounge area with benches, soft carpet, and indirect lighting. This area stays very calm despite the crowd moving all around it:

One can usually find unoccupied gate areas, even during the major connecting hours, by walking a few minutes - or even just around the corner.

Restrooms
The restrooms are plentiful, and about the cleanest places you’ve ever seen. Plenty of space in the stalls; if you need to bring your toddler in with you, she can walk around - they are that spacious. The big restrooms in the main concourses even have a few stalls set up as “squatty potties,” if you are daring enough to try.

Food and Shopping
Dining options are surprisingly not plentiful in the gate areas of either terminal. (Terminal 1’s pre-security food court is legendary, but you won’t be able to access it when connecting between flights.) Narita has replaced international chain restaurants and fast-food places in the secure zone with local vendors and a focus on local cuisine; not that that is necessarily a bad thing - Japanese food is tasty, fast, and no more expensive than Western food - grilled meats and noodle dishes are definitely familiar. Even Starbucks has been exiled to the pre-security zone; the only Western outlet remaining is the McDonald’s in Terminal 1, near gate 26.
Shopping options are stacked toward the duty-free luxury goods / electronics / cosmetics / alcohol & tobacco categories; however there are also general giftshops in several places in each terminal that sell packaged foods, ice cream, and drinks along with souvenirs and media. Each terminal also features a decent-sized bookstore with a substantial selection of Western reading materials.
Credit cards are happily accepted. Also, note signs in certain places for where US $ are accepted. You’ll get change in Japanese Yen - something more for your scrapbook! Alas, on the way home you won’t be able to burn any excess Chinese Yuan here.

Connectivity
Wi-fi is available in several areas at no charge:
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•In Terminal 1, there are five “Free Wi-Fi Desks” spread across the gate areas.
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•In Terminal 2‘s gate area, go to the “Broadband Cafe” sponsored by NTT.
I’ve been able to pick up free coverage in other areas of Terminal 1, and the airport says it is working to gradually cover both terminals entirely.
There also are coin-operated Internet terminals set up throughout both terminals - 10 minutes for 100 yen (that’s less than US $2).
If you’re stopping in Tokyo for a few days on the way into China, there is a substantial network of rail services now available to most of the city’s major rail terminals. Narita also is served by a network of frequent bus services which connect with most of the major hotels.

